Recommended Glazing Methods
Important Installation Details
Apertures must be dry before glazing. It is imperative that the glazed unit is set on glazing packers and totally sealed so that no moisture can find its way into the rebate and make contact with the seal of the unit. This is the most common cause of units to fail.
To bed the unit into the rebate you will need to use either dry glazing tape such as security double sided tape or Silfix U9 silicone, either of these methods are good for security.
The unit should be seated onto suitable glazing packers to avoid glass to timber contact all around unit and held in position by Non Corrosive sprigs or brads. (Such as Copper, Sherardized, Stainless Steel or ideally, glazing gun diamond points)
The gap around the perimeter of the unit should then be sealed with Silfix U9 silicone and allowed to dry for 24 hours, this is essential. The unit can then be face puttied with heritage putty, which is quick drying and faced in the usual way.
Linseed Oil putty MUST NOT be used.
Glazing with Beads
Back bed with Silfix U9 silicone or security tape, seat onto glazing packers and perimeter seal with Silfix U9 silicone as above. Then the bead can be applied.
The beads should be pinned with Non Corrosive panel pins, as above.
It is also an option to cap the bead depending on aesthetic requirements.
If glazing with glazing tape it is advisable to seal below the tape, where the upstand meets the rebate with Silfix U9 silicone.
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Both methods require that the putty or beads are over painted with the paint making a good seal on the glass. Painting can be carried out 2 days after glazing.
Important – Overall we recommend that the glazing is carried out by an experienced glazier.
We do not tape the edge of our units as recommended by Bostik Butyl Hot Melt Product data sheet.